South Swell

There nothing like seeing plump, round, liquid mountains of waves assaulting the shore line. In Hawaii, Southern swells are born by storms conceived in the South Pacific. Typically, these storms flow west to east with their anger aimed primarily at South and Central America and secondarily towards North America. Occasionally though, gales rise up out of the Tasmanian Sea with fetching winds pushing storms more on a south to north path towards Hawaii. When this happens, High Surf Advisories are issued, the coconut wireless blows up and everyone calls in sick. “Brah, surf’s up!”

There is a great story about a Southern swell arriving on Oahu in 1917 where Duke Kahanamoku describes the waves as being 20 to 30 feet in size and legend has it that he rode a “Bluebird” for over a mile from Castles Beach in toward the beach at Waikiki.

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